Dublin has no shortage of proper pubs, the kind where the smell of turf and a good pint greet you as soon as you walk in the door. Some look like they’ve been lifted off the set of a period drama with flickering candles, shelves cluttered with old matchboxes and postcards and dusty glass bottles so thick with wax, you’d swear they were holding the place together.
If that’s the sort of vibe you’re after, here’s a guide to some of my favorite old-school pubs in the city. These places are the real deal and cater to everyone, from families to solo visitors and non-drinkers. Whether you’re meeting friends, catching live music, or sitting quietly with your thoughts and a book, the focus is always on a cozy, inviting atmosphere.
Laid-back Victorian pubs
1. McDaid’s
In the city center, you’re spoiled for choice. One of my favorites is McDaid’s, a subdued Victorian bar on Harry St with stained-glass windows and dark wood interiors. It used to be one of Irish writer Brendan Behan’s favorite pubs, and interestingly, it was once the city morgue, adding to its moody ambiance.
Top spot for food nearby: Coppinger Row for bistro-style fine dining.
2. Bowe’s
I also love Bowe’s on Fleet St, which is all wood and brass with an excellent whiskey selection. It can be quiet during the day when you’ll hear nothing but the rustling of a newspaper, but if you sit at the bar, you’ll likely end up chatting with someone within minutes.
Top spot for food nearby: D’Olier St to indulge in a Michelin-starred 13-course tasting meal.
3. The Oval
Another excellent Victorian-era recommendation is the Oval near the GPO, which my co-worker Ru Ogata loves. “When there are no sports on [the TV], it’s usually nice and quiet, and I always get a seat, unlike a lot of the old Victorian-style pubs,” she says.
Top spot for food nearby: They serve food here, try the Irish stew or full-Irish breakfast.
4. Sheehan’s
If you’re looking for a pub with a similarly relaxed vibe, where you can sit and chat without the roar of music, Ru also recommends Sheehan’s near the Westbury Hotel because it’s cozy and “never seems to be too busy.”
Top spot for food nearby: Glas, a standout vegetarian and vegan restaurant.
5. Haritgan’s
Hartigan’s, near St Stephen’s Green and the Museum of Literature Ireland is another inviting spot that describes itself as a “country pub in the city”. It does feel like that inside with decor that seemingly hasn’t changed in years. It has literary connections too, with a mention in Flann O’Brien’s At Swim Two Birds.
Top spot for food nearby: F.X. Buckley, a much-loved steak restaurant.
6. The Long Hall
The Long Hall on South Great George’s St is a must-visit too, but aim for a weekday (you absolutely will not get a seat here at the weekend) when there’s nobody around so you can appreciate how beautiful the interior is, which has been pretty much the same since the late 1800s.
Top spot for food nearby: Big Fan for Hong Kong-inspired small plates.
7. The Swan
About a five-minute walk from The Long Hall is another beloved Victorian pub: The Swan Bar. It dates back to the 1890s with a marble bar, mosaic-tiled floors and polished woodwork that haven’t changed much in over a century. Visit on a quiet weekday night, when you can snag a table by the fire.
Top spot for food nearby: Dublin Pizza Company for Neopolitan-style pizza that you can back to the pub.
Lively traditional city-center pubs
8. Kehoe’s
Just off Grafton St, you’ll find Kehoes, a place everyone loves, especially for its Guinness. This means it’s often crowded, but the atmosphere is buzzy, and the staff are “nothing-is-too-much-trouble” friendly, even when the place is rammed. The interiors are weathered but well-kept, with faded couches that you’ll easily sink into in the parlour room upstairs and a dusty piano that I’ve never seen in use.
Top spot for food nearby: Library Street, a restaurant and wine bar with French and Italian influences.
9. Grogan’s
Grogans receives similar praise for the quality of its stout. Known for its well-worn charm, many Dubliners claim there’s no better spot than its front terrace on a sunny day. Dubs say this about many places, but I’ll say this is true about Grogans. My colleague Alex Butler refers to it as “the people’s living room,” saying, “it attracts all sorts and is the one pub where I always end up chatting with strangers. It’s great at any hour of the day, any time of the year.”
Top spot for food nearby: Stick around for Grogan’s famous cheese and ham toastie.
10. The Stag’s Head
I feel like I’ve met everyone I’ve ever known at some stage in The Stag’s Head. Tucked away on Dame Lane, it’s perfectly placed for a pit stop in town. Outside, buskers perform on the cobbles, while inside, the great stag’s head on the wall keeps an eye on everything.
Top spot for food nearby: Good World for dim sum.
11. The International
The International is a pub where the characters you meet are as much part of the draw as the drinks. Last time I was there, an older man regaled me with tales of playing piano for Barry Manilow. Were any of them true? Highly doubtful. Did I care? Not at all. It’s that sort of place — full of stories, even if they’re probably invented.
Top spot for food nearby: Uno Mas for jaw-droppingly good Spanish-inspired tapas.
12. The Palace
At some point, you might find yourself in Temple Bar, perhaps visiting well-known spots like the Temple Bar pub or Gogarty’s. Although these places are fine, besides their exorbitant prices, they’re not where you’ll typically meet locals. Instead, consider heading to the Palace. My friend Josh calls it “the only authentic pub in Temple Bar.” It’s known for its literary history, having been a favorite of writers such as Patrick Kavanagh, Seamus Heaney, and Flann O’Brien. Head straight to the back room, which is a great people-watching spot.
Top spot for food nearby: The Winding Stair for elevated but homey Irish cuisine.
13. McNeill’s
Or wander down the road to McNeill’s on Capel Street. This is a tiny place with tight corners and narrow aisles so you’ll likely have little choice but to spark conversation with the people shimmying up beside you. It started off as a music shop, about 200 years ago, and the music tradition is still strong with regular live trad sessions.
Top spot for food nearby: Aobaba for affordable Vietnamese food.
14 Toner’s
Toner’s on the south side of the city is an institution, always busy and known for having one of the best snugs in town. It’s widely believed that W.B. Yeats, who was not known for propping up a bar, made an exception for Toners. There’s a brilliant beer garden out the back, and on match days — especially when there’s rugby on — it’s absolutely buzzing.
Top spot for food nearby: Toner’s serves excellent Neopolitan-style pizza from nearby Cirillo’s in the pub. Or you can try Etto for rustic, sit-down Italian.
Cozy pubs that are worth the detour
15. Walsh’s
Just outside the city center in Stoneybatter, about a five-minute walk from the Jameson Distillery, is Walshs. The pub is a favorite of the Lonely Planet Dublin office staff and we frequently take visitors there. Amy Lynch, the Destination Editor for Ireland, calls it her favorite pub in Dublin, noting, “great Guinness, always a good atmosphere and good tunes a few nights a week.”
Top spot for food nearby: Italian restaurant Grano (if you can snag a reservation) or Hakkahan for Sichuan-style Chinese food.
16. Delaney’s
However, when Walshs becomes too crowded to be fun, a short walk around the corner leads to Delaney’s. My colleague Dan Bolger recommends this no-frills, traditional pub for its “laid-back atmosphere and a good mix of locals and students, comfortable seating, and excellent beer garden.”
Top spot for food nearby: Seafood and wine bar, Fish Shop.
17. The Cobblestone
Not far from there is the Cobblestone, which most Dubliners consider one of the city’s best traditional music pubs. Here, you can enjoy a drink while listening to the sounds of fiddles and bodhráns every night of the week — and it’s easy to bond with the people around you when you’re all wrapped up in the music playing in front of you.
Top spot for food nearby: Sister 7 for Asian-inspired small plates.
18. John Kavanagh’s aka The Gravediggers
When you’re on that side of the city, you should also call out to John Kavanagh’s (about 15 minutes on the bus from the city center). Better known as the Gravediggers, this pub is built into the walls of Glasnevin Cemetery and close to the Botanic Gardens. It’s always busy with regulars whom staff in the family-run pub know by name. The decor is the epitome of old-school Ireland, with rickety stools and swinging doors that open into traditional snugs, often with a fire burning and a dog to pet.
Top spot for food nearby: The Gravediggers serve food like Irish tapas and their famous Dublin coddle.
19. Old Royal Oak
Across the river, the Old Royal Oak, near Kilmainham Gaol and the Irish Museum of Modern Art, offers a similarly inviting and traditional “country-pub” ambiance in the city. In our guidebook to Ireland, we mention that “locals are fiercely protective of this gorgeous traditional pub,” and even though it’s on the tourist trail, it’s still sort of hidden away down a country-style lane, which adds to the allure. My colleague Amy Lynch loves this one, too, because “it’s cozy, friendly, with a gorgeous nook that’s perfect for reading on a Sunday afternoon.”
Top spot for food nearby: Urban8 for casual and hearty food.
20. Johnnie Fox’s
Johnnie Fox’s in the Dublin Mountains holds the (much disputed) title of Ireland’s highest pub. It’s been around since 1798 and is crammed with bric-a-brac and artifacts, like Edwardian costumes and Revolution-era posters. It definitely caters heavily to tourists, and everyone from Brad Pitt to the King of Spain has visited, but Dubliners love it too. Because of its layout, you’ll quickly get talking to people, whether it’s a family sitting down to Sunday dinner with live music or people returning from a hike.
Top spot for food nearby: You can stay here. Johnnie Fox’s serves traditional Irish food, including shepherd’s pie and beef and Guinness stew.
