Some people seem to grow long, luscious locks effortlessly. Others, like me, dream of having hair that cascades past their shoulders but can’t seem to grow long hair no matter how fastidious they are about hair care. Others might find that their once-long hair suddenly won’t grow despite not changing anything about their haircare routine. What gives?
I’ve been puzzled by my inability to grow long hair since I was in middle school. I’ve tried getting regular trims and going longer between salon appointments. I’ve experimented with oils, serums and shampoos, yet nothing worked. My hair is healthy, thick, and has plenty of bounce and shine. However, I’m still left with hair that has never grown longer than an inch or two past the tips of my shoulders, leaving me forever envious of those with hair cascading down their backs.
To get to the bottom of this, I consulted top doctors who specialize in hair growth and restoration. And I found out that I’m not alone.
First, you need to understand how hair grows.
Dr. Ross Kopelman, a hair transplant surgeon at Kopelman Hair Restoration, explains that “it’s a question that frustrates a lot of people, and the answer comes down to how hair grows and what controls that growth.”
Although hair appears to sprout out of our heads magically, growth involves a complex, four-stage process.
Hair first goes through the anagen phase of active growth, which is the longest and most important phase. Dr. Zafer Cetinkaya, a hair transplant surgeon at EsteNove, explains that hair growth starts in small structures called hair follicles, which are located beneath the skin. At the base of each follicle lies a hair bulb. As the cells in the hair bulb multiply, they are pushed upward through the follicle. As these cells journey through the follicle, they die and harden, forming strands of hair made out of a protein called keratin.
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When this process ends, the hair enters the catagen phase of transition, during which the hair stops growing and the follicle shrinks. This is followed by the telogen phase of resting, when the hair prepares to fall out. Finally, hair enters the exogen phase where the hair falls out, making way for new hair growth.
Cetinkaya explains that our hair is continually cycling through these phases, ensuring that new hair replaces old hair. Fortunately, each strand of hair operates on its own growth cycle, which prevents us from losing all of our hair at once. “Think of it like a staggered relay race, where each hair is at a different stage,” allowing us to maintain a “consistent appearance,” Kopelman said.
How long hair grows depends on the length of your anagen phase.
The anagen phase is what determines how long your hair can grow, Cetinkaya said. “At any given time, 85-90% of the hair on your scalp is in the anagen phase,” he explained. The longer the anagen phase, the longer each strand of hair can grow.
The reason some people can grow long hair and others can’t is that the length of the anagen phase varies significantly between individuals, Cetinkaya said. This phase typically lasts between two to seven years, he explained. How long the phase lasts depends on several factors. However, “genetics is the most significant factor, as your DNA dictates the length and growth rate of your hair,” Cetinkaya said. “Your ethnic background also influences hair growth characteristics. For example, people of Asian descent often have a longer anagen phase and faster-growing hair compared to those of African or Caucasian descent,” he explained.
During the anagen phase, each strand of hair grows about 0.4 inches per month, he said. Those with anagen phases lasting two years may be able to grow hair that reaches about 9.6 inches before falling out and being replaced with a new strand. In contrast, those with a seven-year anagen phase may be able to grow their hair as long as 33.6 inches.
“If your anagen phase is short, your hair will reach its maximum length faster and fall out sooner,” Cetinkaya said. Those with shorter anagen phases won’t be able to grow their hair long, no matter how long they go between haircuts or how well they take care of their hair, he added.
Your anagen phase may get shorter due to age or your health.
Age is another factor that impacts your anagen phase. For many people, the anagen phase shortens as they become older, Cetinkaya said. Those who had long hair when they were younger may find it impossible to grow longer hair as they age. When this change takes place depends on a number of factors, including genetics, health and environmental elements, Kopelman said. However, he explains that typically, men will notice a difference when they are in their 20s, and women may notice their hair does not grow as long when they are in their 40s.
Additionally, hormonal changes, such as those that occur during pregnancy or menopause, “can extend or shorten the growth phase,” Cetinkaya said. Thyroid function can also influence the anagen phase, Kopelman added.
Is it possible to extend the length of your anagen phase?
How long your hair can grow is largely a matter of genetics and luck. However, there are some steps those with shorter anagen phases can take if they want longer hair. That’s because “overall health, nutrition and stress levels” also play a role in hair growth, Cetinkaya explained. “Taking care of your scalp health is also crucial,” he said.
First, nutrition plays a “huge role” in promoting longer hair, Kopelman said. Cetinkaya recommends “supporting and potentially extending” the anagen phase by “maintaining a balanced diet that includes proteins, vitamins such as B-complex, C, D and E, and minerals like iron, zinc and biotin.” He suggests eating foods like eggs, fish, leafy greens and nuts that are high in key nutrients that promote hair health and extend the anagen phase.
Additionally, “Hair grows best when the scalp is clean, hydrated and free of inflammation,” Kopelman said. He explains that avoiding harsh shampoos and avoiding harsh chemicals can help. “Gently massaging the scalp improves blood circulation and nutrient delivery to hair follicles,” Cetinkaya added.
Moreover, Cetinkaya says that managing stress is important because “high stress levels can shorten the anagen phase or trigger hair loss.” Practicing yoga or meditation and getting regular exercise can help reduce stress, he said.
Your hair might be breaking before it reaches its full length.
Not caring for hair properly can create the impression that hair is not growing, Cetinkaya said. “Heat styling, tight hairstyles and chemical treatments can cause breakage, which makes it seem like hair isn’t growing even if it is.” Some may think their hair cannot grow long when, in reality, they are damaging their hair with poor hair hygiene. Stopping these harmful practices may result in longer hair for those with longer anagen phases.
Even if you do everything right, seeing progress will take time because hair grows very little each month. Moreover, Kopelman warns his patients that no matter what they do, they probably won’t see a dramatic difference. “The most important thing I tell my patients is to have realistic expectations. Hair has its own natural limits, and there’s no magic trick to growing it past what your genetics allow,” he said.
